We are here: Evolution Basin Total Mileage: ~57 miles Total Elevation Loss/Gain: ~9,500 feet (a few hundred feet more gain than loss) Length: 6 days Trailhead: We started at North Lake at Piute Trailhead (~9,400 feet) Mountain Passes: Piute, Muir and Bishop Following that, we returned to North Lake via Lamarck Col, a high pass just short of 13,000'. I kept hoping to find a side stream, but all of the obvious places were dry as a bone. This trail is great for backpacking, birding, and camping, and it's unlikely you'll encounter many other people while exploring. Does this seem like a fair deal to you? On our way back down we hike about 13 miles and set up camp for the last night. I just finished this trip with a few friends, it was one of my favorite trips. It was gorgeous. We headed over Piute Pass and into Humphreys Basin from the North Lake Trailhead. Evolution Valley elevation: 9,500 feet 11/10/2022 - Expect winter conditions. We fell about 2 miles short of the destination endpoint with loss of daylightlesson learned, if this is a short weekend excursion, you need to get there early and push through hard. 7/19/2014 - 17.03 miles, 2,992 AEG - Piute Bridge to Evolution Creek The day started with a six mile roundtrip hike to Muir Trail Ranch to obtain our resupply. Backpacking Has Changed a Lot Over the Past 50 Years. Note: Bishop Pass hikers will encounter dozens deer skeletons on the steep slope below Bishop Pass. 3 trip report day 5-8: Lyell Canyon/Tuolumne Meadows to Red's Meadow Resort. The fourth day we packed back to the Florence lake JMT trail junction. Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. The trail includes one major unbridged crossing of Evolution Creek - often an exciting wade during the spring run-off - and three . We returned to camp and reorganized and then started the hike into Evolution Valley. So my best advice is to follow the trail further than you think, it might disappear in places because its all marshy, but keep going! That night we enjoyed a campfire in Aspen Meadow since we were below 10,000 feet and there were already the makings for a fire ready to go! We had heard that you could maybe get an employee of Parcher's Resort to give you a lift to the North Lake Trailhead -- they are located a mile down the road from the South Lake Trailhead. Weather was great very little wind. The trees were also providing good shade, except for a couple of bare places where avalanches had swept the forest away, leaving only chest-high chaparral. So prepare rain And wind covering if comfort is a must. Or bag flattopped Mt. . I had a really good time and met several really nice people. It happens from glacial erosion that widens and deepens the main valley leaving the geographic feature that seems to float above it. Reports of hail and lightning from others along the trail. Most of the fellas caught small California Golden trout in the lake. Good campsites can be found there also. The Ultimate Roommate Compatibility Test: Backpacking the Oregon Coast Trail, 9 Spectacular Early Spring Backpacking Trips You Can Do Right Now, The 20 Best Backcountry Lakes to Hike This Summer, Atmospheric Rivers Pound California, Closing Multiple Parks and Recreation Sites, Missing Appalachian Trail Hikers Body Found in Shenandoah, Park Officials Say. Piute Pass going in is a bit of a doozy so push on over and head for lower altitude camping or you may be whacked by the elevation. Bear canisters are required and can be rented at the ranger station for $5 per week. Day four Rest and explore. Piute Pass Trail - North Lake Beginning in lodgepole pine and quaking aspen, the trail follows the creek at the foot of Piute Crags and Mount Emerson. Grand views of the high sierra. During my summer as a volunteer wildlife technician in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, I spent my days trekking with a pack full of tracking equipment to survey animal populations. But the Ionian Basin is a very special place for backcountry skiers, with all kinds of great slopes and skiable peaks. The long circuitous way, but entirely on trails, from this trailhead goes over Piute Pass (11,423 ft.) descends through Humphrey Basin along Piute Creek to the John Muir Trail (at 8,000 ft.). The trail starts at North Lake (9,276'), soon enters the John Muir Wilderness, and ascends to Piute Pass (11,423') in four steep miles. I set up my tent and got my gear situated inside. On the way back, check out the Blayney hot springs - they are magical! Layover at Sapphire Lake while weather passed. It was breathtaking up there. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. Anon. Our total hiking miles over 5 days was 41.8 miles then we caught the ferry for the extra couple. A great spot! Beyond Huntington, the road narrows and in places is steep and windy as it climbs over 9,184-foot Kaiser Pass and descends to Florence and Edison lakes. But 6-year-old Gregory "was an absolute trooper," said Steward, as . While the passes were more challenging and toward the beginning going CW, we loved the direction we chose. There wasnt going to be much of a sunset from down in the canyon, so I went to bed early. The river is nice to camp by here. The Tyee Lakes part was not the most beautiful part and was pretty strenuous, but made transportation much easier. For trail conditions and more details about this hike, check out my YouTube Video I made from this backpacking trip on my channel: Kikis Adventures. The best sites we found are located on the east side of the trail directly after we crossed the stream that feeds the lake. kelly e. No matter how heavy my pack is I always leave room for some whiskey. What a reward after the long hike up the mountainThanks. I have done this trail three times in all. Bear canisters are not required, but food must be stored in a safe way, e.g. Your email address will not be published. The rest were lazy snoozers. Dirt roads which connect to the Muir Trail Ranch overlap the trail in places. There were hikers with quick-drying shoes that just walked right in, but most of us had a chance to talk as we dried our feet. Aahhh! Or bag flattopped Mt. Day three Descend 7.3 miles on the JMT into Evolution Valley, then add an easy 1.2 miles to camp by Evolution Lake. I said a silent thank you before dropping over the top, then apologized to my knees for the steep, descending switch backs they were about to receive. Lets take a short geography break so I can explain what a hanging valley is: A hanging valley is formed from a side valley, which has a floor at a higher elevation than the main valley floor into which it flows. On day 1, take the Piute Pass Trail from North Lake Campground, and hike six miles gaining 2,000 feet to make camp near Upper Golden Trout Lake (no camping within 400 feet). Oh well. Pingback: Tahoe hiking: Bay View to Azure Lake. Muir Pass had miles of near continuous deep snow on both sides of the pass. Several of our trails give entry to the John Muir Trail or Pacific Crest Trail with the opportunity to trek in the longest roadless section of the Sierra Nevada Mountain Range. We parked 3mi down from the trailhead in the overnight parking and caught a ride in the construction workers truck bed (thank you!). John Muir Wilderness sign in the Sierra National Forest good-bye Kings Canyon National Park! Maybe if I waited a bit the sun would be at a lower angle as I headed north, so that the trees would have longer shadows for me to rest in. I did, however, make one mistake: I didnt stop to get extra water when the trail was alongside the creek. Historical side note: Evolution Valley was named by Theodore Solomons . Us silly girls didnt expect something for nothing did we? I got out the map and came up with a plan, but it wasnt perfect. We slept in our vehicle at the trailhead the night before starting. I plan to get back there this month with We started at 8,200 feet and camped at 11,200 feet. What a sight! All in all, it had been another great day in the High Sierra. Then I ate some dinner and took photos and videos of the waterfall that was just downstream from my tent. amazing. North to South Lake is the easiest way to go with passes not too difficult. I should just quit messing around and tape the thing to my face. Speaking of water, we regularly forded streams ranging from little hip-hop creeks to put-on-your-water-shoes-and-unbuckle-your-pack soakers! Many hikers enjoy the week-long loop from North Lake, around through Evolution Valley, over Muir Pass, and eventually heading out over Bishop Pass to South Lake. Mosquitos were bad, but not horrible. We hiked through Evolution Meadow and decided to stay a few miles away near the McClure Meadow Ranger Station (closed due to Covid-19). As I hiked along, I met several PCT Through-Hikers heading north. I felt a whining session coming on, Pleeeeese dont make me leave. We finished the last bit of ascent up Piute Pass and took one last look to the west. Evolution Valley. Cottonwood to Onion Valley: Onion Valley to Bishop Pass: Evolution Loop: July 28-August 4. Truthfully, I wasnt all that worried about a bear. We remained on the JMT at the Goddard Canyon junction and continued up a series of switchbacks that led us to a stream crossing where we had to take off our hiking boots & put on our water shoes and continue towards Evolution Valley. Usually we did it in 7 days. We parked at Lake Sabrina, hiked up past the Tyee Lakes to South Lake and then completed the loop clockwise. The trail skirts the northern shore of Loch Leven. A ranger later informed us that 80-90 deer were migrating seasonally over the pass during a snowstorm in November 2018, when presumably blinded by the snowfall, they one by one hit a patch of ice and fell to their deaths. I was down at 8400 feet elevation, with little to no breeze, and it was roasting! I was overjoyed, and felt a million times better. Solomons christened these mountains the Evolution Group because I could think of none more fitting than the great evolutionists, so at-one in their devotion to the sublime in Nature.. We descended down Muir Pass which seemed endless until camping near the Le Conte Ranger Station. Now I cant breathe for another reason. July 10 - 14. John Muir Trail, Evolution Valley, and Goddard Canyon access point. That was a big mistake. I only had about a liter left of the three Id started with that morning. Located in California's beautiful eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, Inyo National Forest offers challenging trails, high mountain peaks, and unparalleled views. It ended the same way that it started: With Waterfalls! I could see both up and down the canyon, and there was no shortage of glaciated granite in evidence. Explore Evolution Valley - view hand-curated trail maps and driving directions as well as detailed reviews and photos from hikers, campers and nature lovers like you. Just needed a puffy jacket, could skip the fleece. After we got a bit past Summit Lake, we left the trail and headed to Lower Desolation Lake, Desolation Lake and Mesa Lake, where we camped for the night. Shortly after passing Colby Meadow and reaching McClure Meadow, we were served the best views of The Hermit, a distinctly steep monolith, and Mt. Setup camp and to our delight very few mosquitoes at 8500 feet. From there, the trail traverses Humphreys Basin and reaches the splendid section of the Pacific Crest Trail known as Evolution Valley. These Photos Prove It. The ferry usually runs from early June to late September, every day at 2-hour intervals beginning at 8:30 AM at the store end of the lake and making its last run from the far end at 5 PM. But the views from the trail made up for it. John Muir Rock rises directly to the east. Day 2 Dusy Basin to Big Pete Meadow Scale: 1:47,520 or inch representing 3/4 mile. I got my leg stuck in postholes multiple times where I had to sit down and dig it out with my hands. Goode, Bishop Lake, Jigsaw Pass. The tour described below is one example of a 7-day Ionian Basin tour. In between two crossings of the Sierra backbone at Muir Pass and Piute Pass, we'll visit beautiful and famous Evolution Valley. Tracked 40 miles total and we caught the ferry on the way in and out. Ahead, tackle a class 2 scramble to Lamarck Col. Crest Lamarck Col, then drop down the backside. Bishop Pass Trail to John Muir Trail to Piute Trail. By heading upstream on a use-trail for a quarter mile to a meadow, you will find a shallower ford. We hiked most of eac day covering 10-12 miles per day. Then got up and hiked to the ferry to see if it was running and what do you know it was! We had it easy in September, but Ive heard that earlier in the season hikers should be prepared for more difficult fordings. My understanding is that dogs are not allowed in the Kings Canyon National Park. Day four Rest and explore. Oh ya, chill and take your time. Call me crazy, but theres just something great about sitting around a campfire with your friends sharing sugar and a swig. Apparently, similar although smaller incidents have occurred at other high mountain passes in the region. Allow extra driving time to Florence Lake. I sucked the last of my water from the hose and hiked on, filled with new energy. When Leor Pantilat's FKT for the Evolution "loop" came up in my news feed, I skimmed it and moved on, having other things on my mind. The Guthook PCT app on my phone showed most of the camping spots along the main trail, but it didnt show any of them on the trail I was about to take. Didnt see a bear which a good thing. 11/10/2022 - Expect . Switchbacks up were very nice. Day five Leave the JMT, taking the switchbacks above Evolution Lake to access Darwin Canyon and a class 2 scramble up and over Lamarck Col to Upper Lamarck Lake, 2,100-feet below. Stargazing out in the Evolution Valley should be on everyone's bucket list. I had heard from many thru hikers that Evolution Valley was the absolute best. From the pass panoramic views extend west across Humphrey Basin to the distant peaks rising above the western side of the South Fork of the San Joaquin Valley. Rattlesnakes are always possible; but with the popularity of the trail, rattlesnakes are rarely seen. There's no reason to hurry -- it's such awesome, varied country. The contradiction lies in the amount of water all around. Great trail, not all of it is technically dog friendly since you enter Kings Canyon NP for the 2nd half. We also brought along dark chocolate and tequila for special-treat nights. When Hikers Die, Why Are We So Quick to Judge. Once over Bishop Pass, we descended down approximately 5-6 miles to South Lake where we ended our journey. Others seemed to have no issues on the regular crossing. Then I got some water and filtered it. We are slow hikers. Trailhead to Piute Lake Distance from Trailhead: 7.0 miles (round trip) Pat was the captain of the ferry and Charlie ran the little store, nice couple. Okay, I need my camera again. Its not an extremely hard hike; most of it is pretty gradual and flat in the meadows, but there are two sections of switchbacks: heading up into evolution valley and heading up to evolution lake, but they werent too bad. We hiked this loop from North to South Lake. Also included are North Lake, South Lake, Piute Pass, Evolution Valley and Lake Sabrina. There must have been many more waterfalls on the way down, but, sadly, that wasnt part of my plan for the day. After my work was done, Id jump in the nearest river, cook, then bear-proof my camp. North Lake to Hutchinson Meadow is very straightforward. It was gorgeous! Though ruled by an evil mosquito king that keeps his troops busy, Big Pete Meadow (the meadow part should have been our clue) was a delight. This great hike to scenic Piute Pass ascends beneath the multi-hued Piute Crags to a beautiful lakes basin tucked beneath Mt. 2 trip report day 0-4: getting in & Yosemite National Park warm up. Golden trout present. We made a few mistakes that cost us a lot of time, however.we didn't take the ferry out, and lost the trail around the lake - a mistake that cost us several hours to climb over boulders and ledges. We had perfect weather, saw some incredible scenery and wildlife, and had an overall fantastic time! Day 4: Evolution Valley to Piute Creek. $3,395: Description Itinerary Resources The John Muir Trail is one of the finest hikes to be found anywhere in the world. Moderate to the rim of the valley. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 12 h 41 min to complete. The benefits of hiking, more than you can imagine! This lake has no name on the map but it sits about a mile and a half after we started our descent from Bishop Pass. The Sierra Peaks Section was established in 1955. $4,395: August 13-21. We did the alternate Evolution creek crossing this time and it was easy, water just above my knees (Im 411). Map Mono Divide High Country ($10, tomharrisonmaps.com). After the narrows, the valley widened and there were many hot and sunny meadows that I trudged through, at least according to the map. Did this in the opposite direction (South Lake to North Lake) and had a blast. Warm days in the upper 70s and the nights werent too cool either, even up at sapphire lake. Didnt posthole, it was sunny and we summited at 10:30am from a 5:30am start (slower pace), stayed for an hour at the hut and headed down towards Evolution Lake to camp. I climbed upward for two miles without seeing a single decent campsite, either. Muir Pass I woke up before dawn, as usual. Day two Continue on Piute Pass to reach the JMT (and enter the national park) at mile 17.4. Great hike to explore the backcountry and multiple parks. Overall a great hike in the High Sierras. Maybe not bathing for three days has its advantages. Completed end of July 2022. Then we stayed there 1 night then hiked up to evolution valley. And it was! Mosquitos were pretty bad in the meadows, and none up at Evolution Lake, so I recommend bug spray! 4 days 3 nights 2 passes had a great time. Day 6: In the morning the sun popped over Piute Pass and we were instantly warmed and reluctant to pack up and head back out into civilization less than 7 miles away. Wanda(sorry if mistaken) is full of mosquitos, prepare mesh covering for you face. $4,495: August 19-28. I had descended 2500 feet and climbed another 1000 feet to get up here. They were hustling right along. Water was everywhere but crossings were Ok. Bugs were not a issue. Hike up Muir Pass, down to Le Conte Ranger Station. Then it is violently opposed. It was uphill all the way, and there was occasional shade, as I had hoped, so I didnt get heat stroke or anything. The map shown above is for illustrative purposes only. Meadows and trees and waterfalls were on my menu. This site had been used for years, and there were several flat spots. Next we go through Evolution Valley skirting Darwin Canyon, passing through Evolution Basin and crossing the Goddard Divide just before going over Muir Pass (11,855'). Definitely one of my favorite trips ever. Glaciated dome on the canyon side, with Turret Creek (which was dry) on the left, The Piute Pass Trail finally got closer to Piute Creek and I began to seriously look for a campsite, now that I had water, My tent and campsite alongside Piute Creek I wanted to lie down but I still had chores to do, View from my campsite, at 9000 feet elevation, looking downstream. Over Piute pass has one patch of snow to cross and it was also a non-issue. Notice that when I downsized my load I didnt ditch the tequila. It was a fine pace, but sometimes I just wanted the extra time to really settle into the vistas. The river and steam crossings were simple because the water level is so low at this point in the season. Always confirm information with the service provider and check for any recent changes that may have been made. However, on the way back from Forsyth, I had some time to think about it while dealing with trail miles.On paper, 55 miles with 10k vertical in 12h15 looks soft; Yours Truly ran 50 miles with 12k vertical in about 9 hours at San Juan Solstice, and the . Imagine youre traveling on a moonscape in the protection of narrow corridors of granite with the imposing presence of two mighty peaks, Langille Peak and Black Giant, in your view. Many describe Evolution Valley as the most beautiful spot in Kings Canyon National Park. Reach a footbridge over Jeffrey pine-lined Piute Creek, and camp on designated pads nearby. I recommend an early start because of the exposure in the first 3 miles of Piute Trail. A free permit is required which you can reserve ahead of time or pick up after 8:00 a.m. at the White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop, California. I was breathing so hard I started to suspect my companions might have embraced some trail humor and stashed their heavy items in my pack when I wasnt looking. We puzzled about the cause. The mosquitoes were intense in certain areas. Did this a decade ago and want to do it again! Jessie Wheeler. The lake is 53 miles east of Prather. The trail even flattened out to make my way easier. This famous combo-trail will be our path for the next 26.5 miles. Did this hike in end of June 2020 but it was one of my favorites to date so want to leave a review. Campsites: Lake Georg, Long Lake, descent down from Dusy Basin, Helen Lake, McLure Meadow, Puite Canyon Trail, Summit Lake. At mile 5.5 we crossed the river again and took a short break at the base of a long series of switchbacks that would bring us up to Evolution Valley. Laura Manina, my sister and fellow backpacker, shares her experiences and tips on backpacking a 57-mile loop to the Evolution Valley. Id see how I felt when I got to the the trail junction. An epic (almost) loop in the heart of the Sierras. Some of the travel is cross country but fairly easy to navigate. Evolution Valley has always been high on my list of things to do. Only one water crossing (Evolution creek) that required getting your feet wet. I did a backpacking trip over the 4th of July weekend over 4 days, starting at Florence Lake, going up to Evolution Lake. This is about the halfway spot. It is my favorite all-time Sierra hike. They were running a bit late to make it to Canada before the Autumn snows, and they knew it. From there we pass through the giant cirque of Humphreys Basin, and into Hutchinson Meadow, and Piute Canyon. Piute Creek You then head south on the JMT, along the river until you reach the junction with the Goddard Canyon Trail. 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